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Kind: captions Language: en I'm here at the Navy's indoor ocean at cter rock this is the biggest wave pool in the world and they can make all kinds of different waves so they can test scale ships and make them better before they actually go out on the open ocean I came in I'd seen some pictures but I just walked in here and it's just it's insane cuz they say indoor ocean but like it's exactly what it is the water even looks ocean colored you it doesn't look like a swimming pool this looks like an Ocean looks like a test facility it is huge it is 360 ft long in this Dimension 240 ft long in that Dimension it's 20 ft deep just about the size of a football field out there the Dome above us was the largest freestanding dome for a while largest freestanding dome in the world yep what in this pool they can make waves of all shapes and sizes using huge paddles that line two walls of the pool we have 216 individual wav makers we can make waves from -45° up to 135° which is kind of coming right back at it we are now behind the big paddles that make the waves these 216 paddles are programmed to move in incredibly well choreographed ways so that they can produce reproducible uh perfect size perfect frequency waves that go across the entire pool you can see these air Bellows that are what's making the the angular motion that vertical piece is the force transducer the other Force transducer is right up on the top there are lots of wave pools in the world but what makes this one different is control you can create waves of a specific amplitude and frequency and do so repeatedly should we try our 1 Hertz yeah do me a favor and dial up one Hertz amplitude will be 078 at 1 Herz hey go ahead and send it from zero please as this is the largest wave we can make at 1 Hertz just based on the motion and and power requirement for the Wave Maker there's something a bit like surreal about watching this cuz it almost looks like an ocean except you never see waves this regular out there correct one of the fundamental characteristics of a wave is its wavelength the distance from one Crest to the next the first thing most people learn about waves is they transmit energy rather than material from one place to another in this case as the wave travels to the right the water molecules themselves basically Move Along circular paths and the deeper the water the smaller this motion all motion stops at a depth equal to half the wavelength this is known as the wave base but even in an ideal water wave the molecules do drift a bit in the direction of wave motion and this is because the molecules travel faster the higher up they are so they move move farther at the top of their Loop than they move backwards at the bottom creating a spiral path this place is perfect for observing properties of different waves I asked Miguel to show me some waves with different frequencies but the same amplitude so what I'll have them do now is I'll have them stop this wave and this changed the frequency cuz we're at 6 we'll go to 0. five so it'll be a 2C wave here I'm split screening waves with frequencies of 67.5 and3 3 Herz all with the same amplitude so two things to notice even though they all have the same amplitude the ones with higher frequency look like they have a greater amplitude because the slope of the waves is steeper and second the frequency of a wave affects its speed high frequency waves travel slower than low frequency waves in fact as long as the water is deeper than the wave base wave speed is inversely proportional to its frequency they have have a really cool demo that takes advantage of the different speeds of different frequency waves you can see it starting here they send out high frequency waves first followed by lower and lower frequency waves and because the high frequency waves travel slower the lower frequency waves gradually catch up wow and they've timed it so that all the waves meet up at exactly the same time and place in the pool this causes the wave to break the ocean Engineers can do this again and again in exactly the same way thanks to their precise control over the waves this demo also nicely illustrates the principle of superposition that when waves meet they add together the height of the water is equal to the sum of the heights of the individual waves meeting at that point you can see how much bigger the amplitude is those individual waves weren't that big but when you add them all together you can make this big breaking wave they can also take advantage of the superp position principle to create standing waves so what's coming up next are two regular waves coming at each other what we call the quilt wave so we're going to have a wave coming this way and a wave going this way and it's going to create standing waves so there's two regular waves coming out and if you look at the waves it looks like a big quilt pattern out there at some places in the pool the waves always cancel out to zero amplitude and at other places the waves add up for maximum amplitude they can even send waves from all directions so they form circular wave fronts and then all the wave energy is channeled into one spot they call the bullseye and so now we're going to run the bullseye wave which is essentially the same thing but instead of having a line of waves we're having it all coales at one individual point so you can start seeing the waves are coming from the long bank here you can see the making a spherical wave and then you have another spherical wave coming from the short bank and this is breaking due to the coalescent waves and the wave height being more than 17th of the wave length we tried throwing some toys into the wave to see what would happen to them would they get pushed into the breaking wave even though there's not much net movement of the water the ducky drifts with the waves and pretty quickly is pushed into the bullseye how's it how's it you doing he's getting to the danger zone right now it's starting to funnel him right into that breaking wave it's there it's getting up getting up oh it swamped it that's amazing that was right where we wanted it now the real purpose of this facility is not to play with toys or make perfect unnatural waves it is to replicate on a small scale the types of waves Navy ships will encounter in the oceans of the world research Engineers Place ships modeled after billion dooll vessels in the water to see how different designs actually behave in real world conditions right now this is coming from 45° it's going to be about a 5 in significant wave height which if we were to scale it up for this model would be 20ft waves when we're doing a free running model like this we usually run like a racetrack like a big circle or a figure eight track so we know the headings that we're running in so that we can correlate that to you know the full scale vessel for the model to provide an accurate representation of the real world a lot of things must be taken into account is the water fresh fresh water okay not salty nope fresh water so when you're in salty water you're going to have a lot more buoyancy so when we're balasing our models we have to make sure that they take into account that buoyancy difference so when we go full scale you know you're the same conditions for fluid mechanics I always expect that you have to keep the Reynolds number the same as in the real world World phenomena but actually to get the right wave Dynamics you have to use a different scaling which is based on the frud number so the frud number is a measure of the ratio of inertial to gravitational forces it's equal to the flow velocity divided by the square root of the acceleration due to gravity times the characteristic length like the length of the ship in this case the model ship's hole is 46 times smaller than the real thing which means to get accurate data it should be traveling at 1 over the < TK of 46 time its real world speed and to make the footage from the model look the same as that from the full-size ship you have to slow it down by a factor of the square < TK of 46 so roughly 6.8 times slower I'm amazed at just how well these shots match but of course that's the idea scale the model and the waves so the physics are identical to a real ship out on the open ocean naturally I add asked if I could go swimming in the pool but they said very kindly no way the closest I could get would be on a little dingy this is our boat with a catch it's pretty smooth uh smooth sailing out here right now yep no waves while we're out here so I'm assuming no one's ever been out here in waves no that's one of the no no they don't want us to do I guess it's a risk thing so this Place seems like a I don't know like a massive playground kind of it kind of is for uh Engineers like us where it's we kind of Dork out on the science and what we're doing here it's it's a huge volume like I I guess I never understood how deep 20 ft was until they emptied it to put in the new wave makers it's a large volume just taken up by this water um yeah so as we come by these are our sensors right here we have a big array here um these are ultrasonic sensors and that's how we measure wave height and period and direction in the Basin so we want to make measure that to make sure that what we test in is what we think we have in this pool they can create all sorts of different wave conditions you might encounter in different parts of the world most ocean waves are created by wind and the strongest winds occur in and around storms five factors affect the size and shape of waves created these are the wind speed the wind duration the distance over which the wind is acting which is known as the fetch the width of the Fetch and the depth of the water as waves travel out from a storm the higher frequency waves dissipate their energy more quickly so the waves that travel a long way are the fast moving low frequency waves which are called swell when those waves end up becoming like hundreds of miles away like if you have it in the Pacific eventually you'll get long period swell from them so you're no longer near the this the storm but it created enough energy to make long waves and that's where you get your open ocean swell tell me if this is a good analogy I feel like with sound a lot of the high frequencies will die off quickly away from a source but the low frequencies will travel much further correct so is it the same thing with the waves it's like like you're walking away from a concert and you can hear still hear like the bass but you can't see any of the high high fre great analogy yep what's the deal with rogue waves people like to think it's a rogue wave where it's just came out of nowhere and just came up no it's usually multiple waves that are meeting up and creating an amplitude that's much larger than what the self-standing wave would be so when it meets it's going to break because you have this large wave creating this huge amplitude that it just can't hold it and it breaks on a calm day when you see waves crashing at the beach around 10 seconds apart that is swell but because of its long wavelength swell isn't really a concern for ships out in the open ocean you know if you're on a long period swell your ship's probably just going to heat a little bit you're more worried about the Steep waves and the windy waves that are really moving you around wind waves are formed in three steps first as Wind Blows across the surface of perfectly still water the turbulent motion of the air creates regions of slightly higher and slightly lower pressure and this makes tiny ripples with wavelengths of around a centimeter but now the wind can act on these ripples creating larger pressure differences between the front and the top of the wave Crest pulling them up into bigger waves and the interaction of the wind with these waves then creates even larger pressure differences and even larger waves the waves are mostly uniform at this point but as they interact with each other they create a range of different wavelength waves and as the wind keeps blowing these waves begin breaking transferring their kinetic energy into swirling Eddies that dissipate their energy as heat once the energy dissip matches the energy input from the wind the waves have reached their maximum size and this is known as a fully developed CA so this is going to be an irregular wave this is irregular irregular wave so the what you saw earlier with the regular waves where one frequency one amplitude this is what we call a Spectra or multiple frequencies and multiple amplitudes you can see there's like higher frequency waves that kind of go travel slower than the low frequency waves those low frequency waves will travel fast and overcome them and that's what's making them look peaky or kind of dulling it out what surprised me is that the different oceans of the world have different mixtures of wave frequencies or different Spectra depending on their geography and the types of storms that occur there for example the North Sea and other small bodies of water have a peier spectrum and this is due to the limited fetch of storms that occur there in the mid Atlantic a broader Spectrum best describes the developing or decaying open ocean waves that you'd find there and in the North Atlantic the steady wind across an open ocean produces the broadest spectrum of wind waves so when testing engineers first have to figure out where the ship will be deployed and which Spectra best match these locations before creating them in the pool for most people I think an ocean is an ocean but you're saying that there's sort of like different conditions depending on where you are the Destroyer when I was in command we did an operation off the coast of South Korea in the spring very rough seae keeping conditions but then like when you're crossing the Pacific a lot of that is a lot calmer uh so again you know from there to uh the coast of South Korea to the Arabian Gulf all those very different conditions were there any conditions that were particularly rough for you so uh my bed was actually in the middle of a room and the Seas were so bad and this is either south or east China Sea the Seas were so bad that one night I woke up in the middle of the night and my whole mattress with me on it was sliding off of my bed frame um and that's a pretty significantly sized mattress so you can imagine the Seas we were in that night much bigger than this would terrify me I know it probably looks benign but like much bigger than this I think that model will take a lot of water why do you care about how much water goes on the deck so on the back of this ddg is a helicopter landing pad they don't want any water on the deck when a helicopter's about to land that's a big problem you know that's one of the tests that we do here is we'll put cameras to look at the deck and understand how much water wash is on since I knew they wouldn't want to risk their fancy model in rough conditions we brought along a little remote controlled boat to test yeah I wouldn't be happy on that boat a lot of people would be getting seasick W wa no is it gone it's gone no it's right there it came up it's upside down it was totally gone I it was in the air and then it went under now not all the models tested here can be remote controlled so on the carriage is where we're going to do captive mod model test where you could tether put Power and instrumentation onto a model that can't hold it itself so usually the model will go in this Moon Bay right here the models are hooked up here and then the whole Lab speeds over the waves Towing the model underneath people have been making ships for thousands of years mhm is there actually any Innovation today most definitely so sometimes you know people say that's the way we've always done it and then when you look into it there's some validity to some hairbrain ideas and when we test them that's why you know you cut your cost of doing a model test versus building the full thing and saying oh that didn't work every ship that's in the Navy's fleet has gone through here has gone through either our purview or has been tested with perfectly with us but Mo all of the Navy owned ships have been tested in this facility and there is a ship out there with a tumble Home Design where if you look at this ship behind you it flares out so this flare is usually what helps protect you from when you start rolling it gives you a reaction force or gives you a helps push you back a tumble home is shape you know the opposite direction and if you have a ship shaped in that direction it doesn't have as much of a restoring Force when you roll but what is the idea with making a ship like that there's a lot of different reasons why you want to change a whole design some of it is the above water signatures it's all about the shape and radar sections and you know that there's a lot that goes into that you always want to be stealthier you always want to be faster you always want to have more power power and that's always what you know the Innovations come so most of the sailors aren't aware of the work that's going on in the background to support what they do um when I was in The Fleets and I've been in the Navy 27 years I never had any idea certainly not the magnitude of what they do I'm not exaggerating when I say it's impacted every ship and submarine in the fleet hey if you don't have a huge wave pool in your house to test out wave physics I suggest you check out brilliant the sponsor of this video brilliant is the best learning tool I know for mastering Concepts in math science and computer science all their lessons are built around interactivity just check out this one on buoyancy you can adjust the size of a void in this block and see whether it syns or floats and then you proceed through a series of increasingly challenging questions and simulations you know what I love about brilliant is that it really gets 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